Squalane and squalene are two skincare ingredients that often cause confusion due to their similar names and overlapping functions. Both are natural compounds that contribute to maintaining skin health, but they differ in their chemical structure, stability, and sources. Understanding these differences can help you make an informed decision about which one might be better for your skincare routine. This article will explore the key differences between squalane and squalene, their respective benefits for skin, and how to choose the right one for your skin type and concerns.
What Is Squalane?
Squalane is the hydrogenated, more stable form of squalene. Squalane is an important component of human sebum, and the sebum secreted by the sebaceous glands of human skin contains approximately 10% squalene and 2.4% squalene. The human body can convert squalene into squalane. Squalene can provide oxygen and nutrients to cells, promote cell metabolism, form a sebum membrane on the outer layer of the skin, prevent water loss, and isolate bacteria, dust, and UV damage. However, the secretion of squalene in women rapidly decreases from around the age of 25, leading to problems such as skin dehydration, sagging, dullness, and aging. So, supplementing the skin with squalane is quite important!
Sources of Squalane
- Plant-Based: Most squalane used in cosmetics today is derived from plant sources, such as olive oil, sugarcane, or rice bran. This makes it a vegan and eco-friendly alternative to shark-derived squalene.
- Synthetic: Some squalane is produced synthetically in laboratories, ensuring consistency and purity.
Benefits of Squalane
- Stability: Squalane is highly stable and resistant to oxidation, making it a more reliable ingredient in skincare products.
- Lightweight and Non-Greasy: It has a lightweight texture that absorbs quickly into the skin without leaving a greasy residue.
- Moisturizing: Like squalene, squalane is an excellent emollient that helps to hydrate and soften the skin.
- Compatibility: It is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, oily, and acne-prone skin.
- Anti-Aging: Squalane helps to improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Drawbacks of Squalane
- Less Potent Antioxidant: While squalane retains many of the benefits of squalene, its antioxidant properties are slightly reduced due to the hydrogenation process.
- Cost: High-quality plant-derived squalane can be more expensive than other moisturizing ingredients.
What Is Squalene?
Squalene, also known as thirty carbon hexaene or cod liver oil ene. A polyunsaturated olefin with regular branched chains. A small amount exists in certain phytoplankton, seawater, yeast, bacteria, malt, olive oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil, with a concentration of up to 1300 micrograms per gram (wet weight) in shark liver. A representative branched olefin in marine environments. The squalene in shark bodies helps deep-sea sharks gain buoyancy. Squalene is an intermediate for the synthesis of cholesterol and a precursor for the synthesis of tricyclic, tetracyclic, and pentacyclic triterpenoids in living organisms. Recently, someone synthesized squalene from pure trans geranylacetone using Wittig reaction.
Squalene is a polyunsaturated compound, which means it has multiple double bonds in its chemical structure. This gives it beneficial antioxidant properties, but it also makes it highly unstable and prone to oxidation when exposed to light or air. This instability can limit its shelf life and effectiveness in skincare formulations. To address this issue, squalene is often converted into squalane through a process of hydrogenation (adding hydrogen atoms), which makes it more stable and suitable for cosmetic use.
Sources of Squalene
- Human Sebum: Squalene is naturally produced by the human body and is a major component of the skin’s lipid barrier.
- Animal Sources: Historically, squalene was extracted from the liver of deep-sea sharks, particularly the dogfish shark. This practice raised ethical and environmental concerns due to overfishing and the impact on marine ecosystems.
- Plant Sources: Squalene can also be derived from plant oils, such as olive oil, amaranth seed oil, and rice bran oil. Plant-derived squalene is considered more sustainable and ethical.
Benefits of Squalene
- Moisturizing: Squalene helps to lock in moisture, keeping the skin hydrated and supple.
- Antioxidant Properties: It protects the skin from free radicals and oxidative stress caused by environmental factors like UV radiation and pollution.
- Skin Barrier Support: Squalene reinforces the skin’s natural lipid barrier, preventing moisture loss and enhancing skin elasticity.
- Non-Comedogenic: It is lightweight and does not clog pores, making it suitable for all skin types, including acne-prone skin.
Drawbacks of Squalene
- Instability: Squalene is highly susceptible to oxidation due to its unsaturated structure. When exposed to air, light, or heat, it can become rancid, losing its efficacy and potentially causing skin irritation.
- Ethical Concerns: Shark-derived squalene has faced criticism for its impact on marine life, leading to a shift toward plant-based alternatives.
Key Differences Between Squalane and Squalene
- Chemical Structure:
- Squalene is a polyunsaturated compound with multiple double bonds in its molecular structure. This gives it antioxidant properties but makes it prone to oxidation and instability
- Squalane is a saturated hydrocarbon, meaning it has no double bonds, which makes it more stable and less likely to oxidize.
- Stability:
- Squalene is unstable and can oxidize quickly when exposed to air and light. This makes it less suitable for skincare products that need a long shelf life.
- Squalane is highly stable and has a longer shelf life, making it a preferred ingredient in skincare formulations.
- Source:
- Squalene is commonly derived from shark liver oil, though it can also be found in plant oils like olive oil and rice bran oil.
- Squalane is typically derived from plant sources or produced synthetically, making it a more ethical and sustainable option.
- Skin Absorption:
- Squalene is easily absorbed by the skin but may oxidize on the skin’s surface, potentially causing irritation.
- Squalane is also easily absorbed but remains stable on the skin, providing long-lasting hydration without the risk of oxidation.
- Antioxidant Properties:
- Squalene has strong antioxidant properties, protecting the skin from free radicals.
- Squalane has reduced antioxidant activity due to the hydrogenation process but still offers some protective benefits.
Applications in Skincare
Both squalane and squalene are widely used in skincare products for their moisturizing and skin-replenishing properties. However, due to its stability, squalane is more commonly found in modern formulations.
Squalene in Skincare
- Serums: Squalene is often used in serums for its lightweight texture and antioxidant benefits.
- Moisturizers: It is included in moisturizers to enhance hydration and support the skin’s natural barrier.
- Anti-Aging Products: Squalene is a popular ingredient in anti-aging products due to its ability to improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
Squalane in Skincare
- Face Oils: Squalane is a common ingredient in face oils due to its lightweight, non-greasy texture.
- Moisturizers: It is used in moisturizers to provide long-lasting hydration without clogging pores.
- Cleansers: Squalane is added to cleansers to help maintain the skin’s moisture balance while removing impurities.
- Makeup Products: It is used in foundations, primers, and lip products to create a smooth, hydrated finish.
Which One Is Better for Your Skin?
When comparing squalane and squalene, it’s clear that squalane is the more stable and commonly used option in skincare. Its ability to remain stable and effective in formulations makes it the go-to ingredient for most skincare brands.
- For Hydration: If your primary concern is hydration, both squalene and squalane are excellent choices. However, squalane is likely to be more effective due to its stability and longer-lasting hydration.
- For Anti-Aging: If you’re concerned about fine lines and wrinkles, squalane is the better option. Its ability to maintain skin elasticity and support the skin barrier makes it an effective anti-aging ingredient.
- For Sensitive Skin: If you have sensitive or acne-prone skin, squalane is the safer option. It’s non-comedogenic, lightweight, and absorbs quickly, which makes it ideal for these skin types. Squalene, while beneficial, is less commonly found in products suitable for sensitive skin due to its instability.
- For Sustainability and Ethics: If sustainability and ethical sourcing are important to you, squalane derived from plant sources is the better choice. Squalene derived from shark liver oil raises ethical concerns, and many people choose to avoid it for environmental and animal rights reasons.
Conclusion: Squalane vs. Squalene
While both squalane and squalene offer valuable benefits for the skin, squalane is the superior option for most people due to its stability, longer shelf life, and versatility in skincare formulations. Squalane provides deep hydration, supports the skin’s natural barrier, and helps fight the signs of aging, all without the risk of oxidation that comes with squalene.
If you’re looking for a reliable, effective moisturizer or anti-aging product, squalane is the better choice. However, if you have access to squalene in a stabilized form, you can still benefit from its antioxidant properties, but squalane is generally the more practical and reliable option for everyday skincare.
